Wednesday, August 5, 2009

TN: Gorrodona 2007 Bizkaiko TxakolinaTinto

Gorrodona 2007 Bizkaiko Txakolina Tinto is quite the find. Not only is the appellation of Bizkaiko Txakolina unpronounceable for an anglo monoglot, but the varietal is the obscure Hondurrabi Beltza. The appellation is located on the northern coast of Spain in the Basque region, and while this is quite distant from Bierzo in the north-east, I'm still tempted to compare this wine to Mencia from Bierzo.

As one might expect from a northern location with coastal influence, this is a lean, acid-driven wine. It's really the polar opposite of a high alcohol fruit bomb. Although I often appreciate this style, I did find this wine a bit austere. The bouquet is an intriguing mix of funky gamey aromas and pepper, both of the black and green varieties. Think of a hypothetical cross between Cab Franc and Mourvedré. The pieces are all there in this wine, but it does seem they are all a little muted. The finish is dry and mineral laden, so at the very least this wine is an excellent partner for food with subtle flavors.

While I don't crave white hot intensity, this wine makes me think more of smoldering ashes when a well-controlled camp fire is what I really crave. There needs to be a bit more there at the $24 price point in my mind since there are many excellent Old World wines that deliver comparable results for around $15.

Score: 83-88
Price: $24 from Woodland Hills Wine

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