Thursday, April 22, 2010

TN: Two New World Cab Franc Based Wines

My survey of the 'Great Havens Closeout of Aught Nine Thru Aught Ten' continues with the Havens 2005 Bourriquot. If there's one thing I've learned so far, the Havens closeouts are inconsistent. Some are stunning (2006 Hudson Syrah), and others make me wonder how they were priced at $40 originally (2005 Hudson Syrah). This one was a big winner, and from a structural and flavor standpoint, doesn't get much better for me.

The second wine here, a MacCallum 2005 Cabernet Franc, is another fine example of inconsistency. I had one bottle a year ago that was delicious, though it probably showed signs of a mild Brett infection in its leathery aromas. This bottle had gone full blown Brett bomb and simply was dull. A Pinot and a Syrah blend from this producer ranged from not good to undrinkable, so the Brett cocktail in a bottle presented here wasn't too surprising.
  • 2005 Havens Wine Cellars Bourriquot - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Wow, this is right up my alley. Popped and poured (found out after decanting a different wine that it was corked, so this one went directly into the decanter). Does NOT need a day of decanting, certainly hits its stride after an hour or so. Nice funky sweet toe jam and leather aromas with some mild herbaceous smells in the background. A dark bouquet, and bouquet is the word since this is very integrated. On the palate there is a viscous, buttery mouth feel. But this is not an extracted, sticky mouth-molesting wine. Really on the medium bodied side despite the viscosity. Good acidity with copious yet very fine tannins, this has tons of structure in a curiously subtle way. Moderately sweet fruit and bloody iron flavors. Leather and dark chocolate with a hint of bell pepper on a very long, lingering and dry finish.

    If you got this on closeout, this is the best QPR I've yet found. Props to Vaynerchuck on this. Not everyone's style, but this is Cab Franc New World/Old World fusion magic for me. Drink, hold, whatever, this is killer juice. Won't be confused with a Chinon, but has that savory, earthy Cab Franc edge that few California wines can do right.

  • 2005 MacCallum Cabernet Franc - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
    Very strong diaper in need of changing bouquet. Lavender incense and mentholated foot cream in the ambient environment added complexity to the straight up poopulation of the wine. Soft, extracted and creamy quality on the palate with some mousiness present. Easy to drink, but the Brett infection is quite rampant here. Good in the proper context. See above for said context. I still liked it.


Jeff said...

I like the "diaper in need of changing quip." Good stuff on paper, maybe not while it's wafting into your nose. I'm going to have to look for the Bourriquot...sounds good.

CabFrancoPhile said...

Wine House might still have some '06 Bourriquot. Haven't tried that one yet, so I have no idea whether it'll be Jekyll or Hyde. The inconsistency definitely points to why Havens went down, but the wines that are on hit it out of the park for me.