The Palmina 2008 Tocai Friuliano Subida pulls it off spectacularly, however. I'm often concerned about the stability of low or zero sulfur wines like this when they go through the distribution chain. Since this came directly from the tasting room, there's no question this is as intended. Perfect provenance, and a stunning 'outside the box' wine.
2008 Palmina Tocai Friulano Subida Honea Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Crazy wine: Friuliano fermented on skins, aged sur lees, bottled unfined and unfiltered with no SO2. Cloudy, yellow color. Nose of summer. Pears, lychees and floral hoppy aromas. Intense! Palate is a bit flat and bitter at first, then opens up to show more of a pear/melon flavor with a bit more acidity present. Maybe a bit off-dry. Bitter phenolic bite remains, but it becomes complimentary. Really great with some funky, earthy cheeses. Quite the food wine. 12.3% ABV, though it has nice body.
Unique, very well made wine. I can't imagine a professional critic scoring this well over 90, but they tend to only favor whites with lots of oak. This is so impressive. The Cliftons are really redefining what is possible in California.